Understanding comedogenic ratings
A comedogenic rating measures how likely an oil is to clog pores, on a scale of 0 (non-comedogenic) to 5 (highly comedogenic). Ratings are based on rabbit ear assay studies, so they are a guide rather than an absolute — individual skin chemistry matters. As a rule: oils rated 0–1 are safe for acne-prone and sensitive skin. Oils rated 2–3 are low-to-moderate risk. Oils rated 4–5 are best avoided on the face for breakout-prone skin.
The best face oils by skin type
Oily / acne-prone skin: Jojoba oil (comedogenic rating 2) — technically a liquid wax, structurally similar to human sebum; regulates oil production rather than adding to it. Rosehip oil (rating 1) — high in linoleic acid, which research links to reduced acne severity; also excellent for PIH. Squalane (rating 0) — ultra-lightweight, derived from olives or sugarcane; suitable for all skin types. Dry / mature skin: Marula oil (rating 3–4) — exceptionally rich in oleic acid; deeply nourishing but avoid if acne-prone. Argan oil (rating 0) — versatile, lightweight, absorbs quickly; works for most skin types. Combination skin: Rosehip oil or argan oil — balanced fatty acid profiles that do not tip oily or dry areas further.
Oils best kept off the face
Coconut oil (rating 4): one of the most popular natural oils globally, but highly comedogenic. Excellent for hair and body, but causes breakouts for many people when applied to the face. Castor oil (rating 1): despite a low comedogenic rating, its thick, sticky consistency can cause congestion when used neat on the face. Best used diluted at 10–20% in a carrier oil, or on hair and scalp. Olive oil (rating 2): disrupts skin barrier function in some people due to oleic acid concentration; better suited to hair and body care.
How to layer oils correctly
The general rule: thinnest texture first, thickest last. Oils seal in moisture — they belong after water-based serums and before or instead of cream moisturiser. Correct layering order: 1) Toner or essence (water-based). 2) Active serums (vitamin C, tranexamic acid, niacinamide). 3) Moisturiser (if using one). 4) Face oil (2–4 drops, pressed into skin). 5) SPF in the morning. A common mistake is applying oil before an active serum — oil creates a barrier that prevents the active from absorbing into the skin.
Cold-pressed vs refined: why processing method matters
Cold-pressed oils are extracted at temperatures below 49°C (120°F), preserving heat-sensitive nutrients: antioxidants, tocotrienols, carotenoids, and essential fatty acids. Refined oils are extracted using heat and/or chemical solvents, which increases yield but destroys many of the active compounds. Cold-pressed oils are darker in colour, have a more pronounced scent, and have a shorter shelf life. Refined oils are paler, more shelf-stable, and cheaper — but nutritionally inferior. For skincare and hair care use, always choose cold-pressed unrefined where available.